If
there is a red “It” grape, Pinot Noir is, well, it! You will find wine drinkers
who are passionate about the grape. Me? Not so much. I like a wine that’s a bit
more “dark and brooding.” Pinot always seems too perfect, but thanks to Masút Vineyard
and Winery, I have discovered that Pinot can also put forth that tantalizing dark
and brooding nature that I love.
Masút
Vineyard and Winery was established in 2009 by Ben and Jake Fetzer, sons of
Robert Fetzer, one of the most experienced grape growers in Mendocino County,
California. Their grandparents, Barney and Kathleen Fetzer moved to the region
in the 1950s and established Fetzer Vineyards in the late 1960s. The family
produced certified organic wine in the Redwood Valley for over 20 years with
the boys growing up among the vines.
Ben, Robert and Jake Fetzer |
After
Brown and Foreman purchased the Fetzer brand in 1991, Robert Fetzer began a new
wine chapter for the family. In 1994, he purchased 1,200 acres of coastal mountains
and named it Masút Ranch. Pinot Noir was his grape of choice, thanks to the
prevalent hillsides, sunny location, and the fast draining soil. Tragically, Robert
Fetzer died in a river rafting accident in 2006, but his two sons are carrying on the family legacy.
Jake Fetzer |
Ben Fetzer |
After
petitioning for a new viticultural area to be called Eagle Peak Mendocino
County, the brothers converted a barn on the property into a winery, and began
winemaking in earnest. The vineyard is closely tended with all pruning, canopy
management and harvesting done by hand. Masút Vineyard and Winery was launched
in 2009 with its prime focus on certified organic estate grown Pinot Noir. The first release was in 2011.
The
flagship wine is the Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir. According to the winemaker’s
notes, the grapes were harvested early, hand-sorted and whole-berry
destemmed into open top fermenters. After 14 to 18 days of fermentation, the
wine was aged for 15 months, on the lees, in French oak.
Promises! Promises!
That’s
what you’ll get with the Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014. This wine puts forth
a cherry nose with hints of oak. The intense berry, cerise, coke flavors hit
mid-mouth leaving traces of anise that gives you pause – pause to consider what
could happen if given a bit more time to age. The term masút is an Indian word
that means “dark, rich earth,” and you get a suggestion of that alluring earthy
flavor with each sip.
Pair
this Pinot with lamb, beef, game meats or grilled salmon. (I served it with a
venison roast and veggies that played well with the earthy tones of the wine.
Nice!) Priced at $45 a bottle, it is available at Masút
Vineyard and Winery.
~ Joy
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