Organic
wine is defined in the U.S. as a “wine
made from organically grown grapes, without any added sulfites.” This definition comes from the USDA
(United States Department of Agriculture) as listed in their National Organic
Program, the federal regulatory body governing organic food.
The
terms organic or organically
grown mean that synthetic
fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides or herbicides were not used during the
growing process.
Traditional
vs Organic
Wine
grapes are an agricultural product.
Traditionally these grapes have been grown and treated like any other ag-related crop. Vineyard owners and
managers use chemicals on the grapes to control viruses, weeds, fungus, pests,
and to help increase their yields. Just like grain farmers do. The problem with grapevines is that
they absorb these chemicals through the roots. The chemicals sprayed directly on the grapes can also be
absorbed and end up in the pulp.
Either way, this chemical residue may be found in the finished wine.
Organic
farming deals with keeping the soil healthy and free of chemicals. Rainwater may be gathered and used to
irrigate the vineyard. Rather than
using synthetic fertilizers, composted animal manure is utilized. Instead of herbicides, cover
crops are grown. No pesticides are
sprayed, instead natural predators of grape pests are introduced.
What
About Sulfites?
Contrary
to popular myth, organic wines are NOT sulfite-free. ALL wines contain
sulfites, naturally. Sulfites,
also known as Sulfur Dioxide, (SO2) are a natural by-product of the
fermentation process. Sulfites may
also be added during fermentation by the winemaker in order to stop the growth
of mold and unwanted bacteria, and to preserve the quality and flavor of the
wine, thereby reducing spoilage once the wine is bottled. Traditionally, sweet wines contain more
sulfites than dry wines, and white wines have more sulfites than red wines.
Traditionally-grown
wines can legally contain sulfite levels up to 350 parts per million
(ppm.) Wines that have been
labeled “Made from Organic Grapes”
can contain 100 parts per million of sulfite – less than 20 milligrams per
glass. Since 1987, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, formerly known as the BATF; Bureau of Alcohol,
Tobacco and Firearms) has required
that all imported and domestic wines, beers and spirits in the U.S. must
include the wording on the label “Contains Sulfites” if the wine, beer or
spirit contains more than 10 parts per million of sulfites. Most organic
wines contain from 6 to 40 parts per million of sulfites, naturally.
Currently
the U.S. upholds the strictest organic wine standards in the world. In order to be labeled as completely
organic, a wine cannot be produced with any added sulfites. These two words make the difference in the definition of organic wine.
But this again presents the problem of crafting a stable wine that can retain
its quality over time without the addition of extra sulfites. This could lead
to organic wines creating a more negative perception when they cannot hold up
to most traditionally accepted wines due to oxidation or bacterial spoilage in
the bottle.
The general consensus of a select group of wine consumers regarding
wines labeled as organic indicate that consumers hold a lower opinion about organic wines than conventional wines. The reason? Wine drinkers said organic wines did not taste as good, were not as easy to store, and
generally, lacked the quality of traditional wines.
Organic
wine producers exist all over the world, but the term organic is only as meaningful as its definition in the
country in which it's produced. Something to remember when purchasing non-U.S. "organic" wines.