The
grape harvest is done for the year. Now it’s time to ferment, craft, and age the
wines. But there is still one
special grape harvest yet to be done, one that will not take place
until sometime between November and January, after the grapes have frozen.
Ice
wine is a type of wine that is produced from grapes frozen on the vine. These frozen grapes provide a more
concentrated, super sweet liquid that is crafted as a dessert wine. Although other wines may use the phrase
“ice-like," only grapes frozen on the vine, before fermentation, are true ice wines.
Legend
has it that ice wines came about in the late 1700’s when a German winemaker did
not pick his grapes in time to avoid a sudden frost and they froze on the vine.
Refusing to discard the frozen, and apparently ruined grapes, the winemaker
proceeded to make his wine. The end result amounted to less volume, but a much
sweeter and more concentrated wine. Hence, the first eiswein (ice wine) had
been produced.
Although
Germany is the land where ice wine began, the largest producer of the product
is Canada. During the 1980’s, Canadian wine makers realized that their region
had the perfect cold climate for regular and exceptional ice wine production.
(Or icewines, as it is spelled in Canada.)
In
1991, Inniskillin, a Canadian winery located in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario,
entered its 1989 Vidal Icewine into the Vinexpo Wine competition in Bordeaux,
France. The icewine won the Grand
Prix d’Honneur, and began the world’s interest in icewines.
The
Canadian VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) regulates the winemaking process and
sets the standards that must be met for a true icewine to be produced in Canada. This includes that only healthy, naturally frozen grapes may
be used – no artificial freezing is allowed. The temperatures must reach -8°C (17°F.) Harvesters must be ready to go when the
winemaker determines that the grapes are ready. Frozen grapes are then picked by
hand in the early morning darkness. A VQA-appointed agent monitors the
harvest and will stop the picking if the temperatures rise above -8°C. The
wineries and barns are also kept cold, so that the grapes do not thaw out
during the crushing process.
Waiting
for these perfect harvesting conditions can be chancy – the final grape crop of
the year must be protected from birds and foraging animals, and temperatures must
be monitored to make sure they do not become too extreme. If the freeze does not come quickly
enough after the grapes are ripe, they can rot on the vine and the harvest will
be lost.
Canadian
ice wines have been called “liquid gold” with good reason. Every year, Canada
produces gold medal winners in competitions around the world. Icewine is known for its intense rich
sweetness, imparting the aromas peach, pear, apple, sometimes a nutty essence.
Depending on the grape and crafting, the full flavors of honey and caramel may
shine through, or the wine may have more tropic fruit overtones of citrus and
mango. The alcohol level of ice wines is usually between 7 and 12%.
The
main grapes used for ice wines are Riesling, Vidal, Gewurztraminer, and
Cabernet Franc. However, there are
several winemakers around the world who are trying different grapes to see if
the results are as pleasing. Most are crafted to be medium or full-bodied wines.
Besides
Canada, and occasionally Germany, ice wines are sometimes produced in Austria,
France, and Sweden. And, in
Washington State and Michigan in the U.S.
Many
other states make “ice-like” or "ice wine style" wines, but these are crafted from late harvest
grapes that have been picked and then frozen. Although less expensive that a true ice wine, the end result
is a wine that lacks the intensely flavorful richness of an authentic ice wine.
Ice
wines can be expensive, but the reasons are understandable. Due to the strict guidelines for
ice wine production, the yields are usually as little as 5 to 15% of a typical
grape harvest. True Canadian Icewines can cost from $25 to over $100 for a 375 ml
bottle.
So
what can be served with a good ice wine?
Since this is a dessert wine, the selections may include desserts with
fruit in them like an apple cobbler, peach crisp, or cherry-covered cheesecake. Wanting to serve an ice wine more as an
aperitif? Consider serving it with
pate’ and a mild, soft cheese.
And
you can’t go wrong with a chilled glass by the fire. Once open, an ice wine can be kept, corked, in the fridge
for a few weeks.
Enjoy!
~
Joy
